"Some people that come here just sit and look at their food for five minutes before eating.” So said the owner of Breeze, a slick, sophisticated, seven-month-old Thai/French fusion restaurant in the Theatre District. Her name, Mayurachat Charyapitukkul, is perhaps the longest of any Manhattan restaurateur. And she knows what she’s talking about: The food at Breeze delights the eye as much as the tongue. The modern surroundings captivate as well. Breeze is a sparkling storefront with a long, back-lighted bar and a bouquet of calla lilies at its end. Shimmering candles sit on each of the room’s otherwise bare tables. Salmon colored walls, an open kitchen, two huge television screens, and menus pressed into 45 rpm records complete Breeze’s au currant good looks. Exotic drinks arrive in graceful glasses with curved stems and stylish triangular, oblong, and square dishes, some curved upward at their points, hold artfully presented food. A crab-and-mango summer roll, an agreeable fusion of fruit and fish, turns out to be six multicolored, upright sushi-like cylinders on a snappy squiggle of lemon emulsion. Most dishes feature Thai food and French cooking techniques, but are more Thai than French. A few, like a warm salad of duck confit and lightly wilted frisee, tilt more toward France. Its shredded-duck confit is an appropriate counterpoint to the frisee, croutons, and onions dressed in spicy anise vinaigrette. Highly spiced, crisp Thai noodle sausages passed muster, and best of all were four fried mushroom dumplings—crisp outside with a savory minced interior. Among the imaginatively presented entrées sampled were four seared citrus-crusted diver scallops perched on an interesting bed of curried coconut, creamed spinach, and jasmine juice. A French hybrid of fat-fringed duck breast, pan-seared with ginger, tamarind, garlic, and Chinese broccoli is fanned out on a plate and accompanied by butternut squash dumplings. Beef basil fried rice looks like a rice pillbox but is layered with beef, egg, peppers, basil, and vegetables. Hot ocean is a straight-forward seafood and vegetable casserole, thick with sautéed shrimp, squid, and scallops in a lemongrass-driven sauce. Desserts are far prettier than the same sweets seen elsewhere. Think red bean ice cream, fried banana, fried ice cream, and chocolate molten cake. 661 Ninth Ave. btw. 45th & 46th Sts., 212-262-7777. Archives: Happenings at B. Smith's Restaurant in New York City Grand Central Oyster Bar Presents Chablis Pairing Dinner on Tuesday, Feb. 16th Grand Central Oyster Bar Offers Valentine's Day Prelude Menu on Saturday, Feb. 13th Patsy's Italian Restaurant Offers 'Ultimate Aphrodisiac Menu' for Valentine's Day 2010 Celebrate Carnaval at SushiSamba 7 and SushiSamba Park on Tuesday, February 16th Lobster Celebration at Tio Pepe Benjamin Steakhouse Joins Dine Out for Haiti on Sunday, January 24th Salute! Announces Restaurant Week Menu (Jan. 25th-Feb. 28th) Salute's Winter Restaurant Week Menu Free Bottle of Wine at Lunch at Trattoria Dopo Teatro $30 Tuesdays and Thursdays at Cascina Ristorante How to Spend Valentine's Day 2010 in New York City Brother Jimmy's BBQ: Slow Food Makes Its Mark in Manhattan Patsy's Italian Restaurant Launches the Williamsburg Winery’s 2007 Adagio on Jan. 19th Grand Central Oyster Bar's Winemaker Dinner Takes Place Monday, January 11th
"Some people that come here just sit and look at their food for five minutes before eating.” So said the owner of Breeze, a slick, sophisticated, seven-month-old Thai/French fusion restaurant in the Theatre District. Her name, Mayurachat Charyapitukkul, is perhaps the longest of any Manhattan restaurateur. And she knows what she’s talking about: The food at Breeze delights the eye as much as the tongue. The modern surroundings captivate as well. Breeze is a sparkling storefront with a long, back-lighted bar and a bouquet of calla lilies at its end. Shimmering candles sit on each of the room’s otherwise bare tables. Salmon colored walls, an open kitchen, two huge television screens, and menus pressed into 45 rpm records complete Breeze’s au currant good looks. Exotic drinks arrive in graceful glasses with curved stems and stylish triangular, oblong, and square dishes, some curved upward at their points, hold artfully presented food. A crab-and-mango summer roll, an agreeable fusion of fruit and fish, turns out to be six multicolored, upright sushi-like cylinders on a snappy squiggle of lemon emulsion. Most dishes feature Thai food and French cooking techniques, but are more Thai than French. A few, like a warm salad of duck confit and lightly wilted frisee, tilt more toward France. Its shredded-duck confit is an appropriate counterpoint to the frisee, croutons, and onions dressed in spicy anise vinaigrette. Highly spiced, crisp Thai noodle sausages passed muster, and best of all were four fried mushroom dumplings—crisp outside with a savory minced interior. Among the imaginatively presented entrées sampled were four seared citrus-crusted diver scallops perched on an interesting bed of curried coconut, creamed spinach, and jasmine juice. A French hybrid of fat-fringed duck breast, pan-seared with ginger, tamarind, garlic, and Chinese broccoli is fanned out on a plate and accompanied by butternut squash dumplings. Beef basil fried rice looks like a rice pillbox but is layered with beef, egg, peppers, basil, and vegetables. Hot ocean is a straight-forward seafood and vegetable casserole, thick with sautéed shrimp, squid, and scallops in a lemongrass-driven sauce. Desserts are far prettier than the same sweets seen elsewhere. Think red bean ice cream, fried banana, fried ice cream, and chocolate molten cake. 661 Ninth Ave. btw. 45th & 46th Sts., 212-262-7777.
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