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Breeze Dining Review
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November 22, 2005 - by Richard Jay Scholem

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Angelo's Pizza Photos Angelo's Pizza· You haven't tasted pizza until you've tried their coal-oven ...
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"Some people that come here just sit and look at their food for five minutes before eating.” So said the owner of Breeze, a slick, sophisticated, seven-month-old Thai/French fusion restaurant in the Theatre District. Her name, Mayurachat Charyapitukkul, is perhaps the longest of any Manhattan restaurateur. And she knows what she’s talking about: The food at Breeze delights the eye as much as the tongue.

The modern surroundings captivate as well. Breeze is a sparkling storefront with a long, back-lighted bar and a bouquet of calla lilies at its end. Shimmering candles sit on each of the room’s otherwise bare tables. Salmon colored walls, an open kitchen, two huge television screens, and menus pressed into 45 rpm records complete Breeze’s au currant good looks.

Exotic drinks arrive in graceful glasses with curved stems and stylish triangular, oblong, and square dishes, some curved upward at their points, hold artfully
presented food. A crab-and-mango summer roll, an agreeable fusion of fruit and fish, turns out to be six multicolored, upright sushi-like cylinders on a snappy squiggle of lemon emulsion.

Most dishes feature Thai food and French cooking techniques, but are more Thai than French. A few, like a warm salad of duck confit and lightly wilted frisee, tilt more toward France. Its shredded-duck confit is an appropriate counterpoint to the frisee, croutons, and onions dressed in spicy anise vinaigrette. Highly spiced, crisp Thai noodle sausages passed muster, and best of all were four fried mushroom dumplings—crisp outside with a savory minced interior.

Among the imaginatively presented entrées sampled were four seared citrus-crusted diver scallops perched on an interesting bed of curried coconut, creamed spinach, and jasmine juice. A French hybrid of fat-fringed duck breast, pan-seared with ginger, tamarind, garlic, and Chinese broccoli is fanned out on a plate and accompanied by butternut squash dumplings. Beef basil fried rice looks like a rice pillbox but is layered with beef, egg, peppers, basil, and vegetables. Hot ocean is a straight-forward seafood and vegetable casserole, thick with sautéed shrimp, squid, and scallops in a lemongrass-driven sauce.

Desserts are far prettier than the same sweets seen elsewhere. Think red bean ice cream, fried banana, fried ice cream, and chocolate molten cake.

661 Ninth Ave. btw. 45th & 46th Sts., 212-262-7777.


FEATURED LISTINGS

Angelo's Pizza Photos Angelo's Pizza· You haven't tasted pizza until you've tried their coal-oven ...
Angelo's Pizza Photos Bangkok House· Thai food to die for at reasonable prices in a casual, attra...
Bangkok House Special Offer
Angelo's Pizza Photos Lucille's Bar & Grill at B.B. King Blues Club & Grill· One of New York's newest and most exciting nightclubs with l...
Angelo's Pizza Photos Bice Ristorante· A sumptuous combination of traditional and new trends in Ita...
Angelo's Pizza Photos Bill's Gay Nineties· Affordable food at a former speakeasy with turn-of-the-centu...

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