No one (especially out-of-towners) expects to find a restaurant like Cancun in Manhattan. This 20-year old Mexican eating place on 8th Avenue, in the upper 50s is, well, homey. It’s a casual, friendly, down-to-earth spot run by Becky and Ricardo Diaz, a warm, appealing young couple who go back and forth between their nearby home where they take care of three young children and the restaurant. At Cancun they enthusiastically greet diners, watch over their sharp, knowledgeable wait staff, keep the rollicking though well behaved bar crowd happy and see to it that the kitchen is up to speed. At times that kitchen crew has to move and move fast to fill orders from a menu that lists 13 appetizers, about 46 entrees, 4 sandwiches and 6 desserts: everything from burgers to mega enchiladas. Cancun has survived the test of time. It was opened over two decades ago by Ms. Diaz’ father. Then and now it is a place of archways, clay pots, urns, South of the Border lanterns, wall masks, mustard colored walls, statues, candles and laughter. Newcomers walk through a lively working class bar crowd wearing baseball caps and cowboy hats to a more serene rear dining room. Noteworthy drinks served in glasses with cactus-shaped stems are the order of the day in both areas: mojitos and especially margaritas (try the terrific fresh mango) are among the City’s best. The robust and refined dishes at Cancun are preceded by a never ending parade of good, warm corn chips and zingy salsa. Among the tastiest starters are the cheese-rich quesadillas crowned with slices of nearly incendiary jalapenos and a guacamole salad of shredded greens topped with a generous dollop of contrasting avocado mash. Rather neutral plantains are given a welcome boost by their garlic butter sauce that sports a touch of corn flour, shrimp Cancun is a savory stew of crustations, tomatoes, onions and garlic that will greatly appeal to lovers of Italian food. Although the rice and refried beans here are standard, the chicken with mole sauce strikes a balance of chocolate and meat that is neither too sweet nor too bitter. Other entrees that more than passed muster were flautas, flour and corn tortillas stuffed with runny cheese and chimichangas or lightly fried flour tortilla torpedoes served with cooling sour cream and good guacamole. Desserts, fried ice cream, flan, sopapilla, etc. are predictable, but the peppy little Cancun is much better than that. 937 Eighth Ave. (btw. 55th & 56th Sts.), 212-307-7307. Archives: Happenings at B. Smith's Restaurant in New York City Grand Central Oyster Bar Presents Chablis Pairing Dinner on Tuesday, Feb. 16th Grand Central Oyster Bar Offers Valentine's Day Prelude Menu on Saturday, Feb. 13th Patsy's Italian Restaurant Offers 'Ultimate Aphrodisiac Menu' for Valentine's Day 2010 Celebrate Carnaval at SushiSamba 7 and SushiSamba Park on Tuesday, February 16th Lobster Celebration at Tio Pepe Benjamin Steakhouse Joins Dine Out for Haiti on Sunday, January 24th Salute! Announces Restaurant Week Menu (Jan. 25th-Feb. 28th) Salute's Winter Restaurant Week Menu Free Bottle of Wine at Lunch at Trattoria Dopo Teatro $30 Tuesdays and Thursdays at Cascina Ristorante How to Spend Valentine's Day 2010 in New York City Brother Jimmy's BBQ: Slow Food Makes Its Mark in Manhattan Patsy's Italian Restaurant Launches the Williamsburg Winery’s 2007 Adagio on Jan. 19th Grand Central Oyster Bar's Winemaker Dinner Takes Place Monday, January 11th
No one (especially out-of-towners) expects to find a restaurant like Cancun in Manhattan. This 20-year old Mexican eating place on 8th Avenue, in the upper 50s is, well, homey. It’s a casual, friendly, down-to-earth spot run by Becky and Ricardo Diaz, a warm, appealing young couple who go back and forth between their nearby home where they take care of three young children and the restaurant. At Cancun they enthusiastically greet diners, watch over their sharp, knowledgeable wait staff, keep the rollicking though well behaved bar crowd happy and see to it that the kitchen is up to speed. At times that kitchen crew has to move and move fast to fill orders from a menu that lists 13 appetizers, about 46 entrees, 4 sandwiches and 6 desserts: everything from burgers to mega enchiladas. Cancun has survived the test of time. It was opened over two decades ago by Ms. Diaz’ father. Then and now it is a place of archways, clay pots, urns, South of the Border lanterns, wall masks, mustard colored walls, statues, candles and laughter. Newcomers walk through a lively working class bar crowd wearing baseball caps and cowboy hats to a more serene rear dining room. Noteworthy drinks served in glasses with cactus-shaped stems are the order of the day in both areas: mojitos and especially margaritas (try the terrific fresh mango) are among the City’s best. The robust and refined dishes at Cancun are preceded by a never ending parade of good, warm corn chips and zingy salsa. Among the tastiest starters are the cheese-rich quesadillas crowned with slices of nearly incendiary jalapenos and a guacamole salad of shredded greens topped with a generous dollop of contrasting avocado mash. Rather neutral plantains are given a welcome boost by their garlic butter sauce that sports a touch of corn flour, shrimp Cancun is a savory stew of crustations, tomatoes, onions and garlic that will greatly appeal to lovers of Italian food. Although the rice and refried beans here are standard, the chicken with mole sauce strikes a balance of chocolate and meat that is neither too sweet nor too bitter. Other entrees that more than passed muster were flautas, flour and corn tortillas stuffed with runny cheese and chimichangas or lightly fried flour tortilla torpedoes served with cooling sour cream and good guacamole. Desserts, fried ice cream, flan, sopapilla, etc. are predictable, but the peppy little Cancun is much better than that. 937 Eighth Ave. (btw. 55th & 56th Sts.), 212-307-7307.
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