I love Chinese food but hate reviewing Chinese restaurants. That’s because their menus are so much alike. What can be said that hasn’t already been said a zillion times?
The three-month-old Lychee House breaks the “if-you’ve-been-to-one-you’ve-been-to-’em-all” syndrome. Although most of the conventional Chinese favorites -- like barbecued spare ribs, scallion pancake, steamed dumplings, wonton soup, etc. -- are available, they are not what the calm, carpeted Lychee House is about. This serene Midtown East spot strives to be different, to serve dishes even Asian culinary aficionados have never had before.
When did you last drink lychee sangria? I never had sampled (or even heard of) this very exotic fruity drink that nicely complements Chinese food until I came upon it at Lychee House.
Named for a tree that grows throughout Southeast Asia, their menu reflects that geographic spread with the food of Singapore, Shanghai, Canton, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Thailand, among others. The extensive array of dim sum also reflects the varied Asian influences inherent in the Lychee House’s philosophy.
From the glistening, refreshing complimentary cabbage strands served at the outset of each meal to the snowball-style dessert with its soft coconut flaked exterior and surprising hazelnut core, nearly every dish is a revelation. Some seemingly predictable preparations are given unexpected spins by Chef Ken’s XO sauce, an intriguing amalgam of dry scallion, shrimp, oil, garlic and an array of spices that’s aged for a few weeks before it’s put into play. The chef’s braised lobster -- shards of fresh-out-of-the-shell meat, gently sautéed with red pepper and delicate baby snow peas -- benefits from the XO creation. Rendang sliced beef -- a Malaysian classic -- is light on curry and long on flavor with the delightfully soft texture of pulled pork or long and slow-cooked pot roast. Speaking of soft, tender meat, try Tung Po pork, a Sung Dynasty delicacy of braised pork belly prepared in a tasty red sauce. Diners who target chicken fricassee, chicken scarpariello or even old fashioned chicken a la king will enjoy Lychee House’s homestyle chicken casserole, a country-style scramble of boneless chicken breast marinated in a clay pot with mushrooms, snow peas, bamboo shoots, red wine and full of interesting herbs and spices.
Recommended starters include four squares of grilled eel (yes, eel -- don’t knock it without trying it) topped by shredded carrot and garnished with garlic flakes, tender cubes of steak in, of all things, pesto sauce (it works) and the best soup dumplings this side of Flushing stuffed with hand-chopped pork and served on a spoon -- suck the soup out and then munch on the meat.
141 E. 55th St., 212-753-3900; lycheehouse.com
Richard Jay Scholem was a restaurant critic for the New York Times Long Island Section for 14 years. His A La Carte Column appeared from 1990 to 2004. For more “Taste of the Town” reviews, click here.
|
FEATURED LISTINGS
|
Rose Crossing·
Immerse yourself in culture, art and history on an art adven...
|
|
ProTravel·
A wide selection of vacation services, for both corporate an...
|
|
Archives:
